Islamic Sites- Egyptology

Famous Islamic Sites in Egypt

Egypt ismalic travel guide- Guide to all Egyptian Islamic Sightseeing and famous mosues such as hamed ali Mosque, Sultan Hassan Mosque, Ahmed Ben Tulun Mosque, EL Hakim Mosque , EL Azhar Mosque, El Rifiae Mosque, Sabil Katkhuda

Click on the thumbnails below for full articles

• Mosque of Mohamed Ali

• Mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tulun

• Mosque of Sultan Hassan

• Citadel of Salaadin

• Mosque of Refaie

• Mosque of El Hakim

• ALazhar Mosque

• Khan El-Khalili Bazaar

• Sabil Katkhuda

• The Qaitbay Citadel

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The Qaitbay Citadel in Alexandria

The Qaitbay Citadel in Alexandria

The Qaitbay Citadel in Alexandria is considered one of the most important defensive strongholds, not only in Egypt, but also along the Mediterranean Sea coast. It formulated an important part of the fortification system of Alexandria in the 15th century A.D.

Qaitbay Citadel

The Citadel is situated at the entrance of the eastern harbour on the eastern point of the Pharos Island. It was erected on the exact site of the famous Lighthouse of Alexandria, which was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The lighthouse continued to function until the time of the Arab conquest, then several disasters occurred and the shape of the lighthouse was changed to some extent, but it still continued to function. Restoration began in the period of Ahmed Ibn Tulun (about 880 A.D). During the 11th century an earthquake occurred, causing damage to the octagonal part. The bottom survived, but it could only serve as a watchtower, and a small Mosque was built on the top. In the 14th century there was a very destructive earthquake and the whole building was completely destroyed.

About 1480 A.D, the Mameluke Sultan Al-Ashraf Qaitbay fortified the place as part of his coastal defensive edifices against the Turks, who were threatening Egypt at that time. He built the castle and placed a Mosque inside it. The Citadel continued to function during most of the Mameluke period, the Ottoman period and the Modern period, but after the British bombardment of the city of Alexandria in 1883, it was kept out of the spotlight. It became neglected until the 20th century, when it was restored several times by the Egyptian Supreme Counsel of Antiquities.

The founder of the Citadel of Qaitbay is Sultan Al-Ashraf Abou Anasr Saif El-Din Qaitbay El-Jerkasy Al-Zahiry (1468-1496 A.D) who was born about 1423 A.D (826 H). He was a Mamluke who had come to Egypt as a young man, less than 20 years old. Bought by Al-Ashraf Bersbay, he remained among his attendants until Al-Ashraf Bersbay died. Then the Sultan Djaqmaq bought Qaitbay, and later gave him his freedom. Qaitbay then went on to occupy various posts. He became the Chief of the Army (Atabec Al-Askar) during the rule of the Sultan Tamar bugha. When the Sultan was dethroned, Qaitbay was appointed as a Sultan who was titled Almalek Al-Ashraf on Monday 26th Ragab, 872 H. (1468 A.D). He was one of the most important and prominent Mameluke Sultans, ruling for about 29 years. He was a brave king, who tried to initiate a new era with the Ottomans by exchanging embassies and gifts. He was fond of travel and made many prominent journeys.

Qaitbay was so fond of art and architecture that he created an important post among the administrative system of the state; it was the Edifices Mason (Shady Al-Ama'er). He built many beneficial constructions in Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem. In Egypt there are about 70 renovated edifices attributed to him, among them are Mosques, Madrasas, Agencies, Fountain houses (Sabils), Kuttabs, houses, military edifices like the Citadels in Alexandria and Rosetta (Nowadays the city of Rashid). These Citadels were built to protect the north of Egypt, mainly against the Ottomans, whose power was increasing in the Mediterranean.

Qagmas Al-Eshaqy, The Edifices Mason, was the architect of the Citadel. Before his arrival in Egypt he was a Mameluke of Djakmaq in Syria. During the rule of Qaitbay he became the edifices mason, and then the Viceroy of Alexandria. He was appointed governor of Syria (Damascus), built a Mosque outside the gate of Rashid (Bab Rashid) as well as a Cenotaph and a Khan. He also renovated the Mosque of El-Sawary outside the gate of Sadrah (Bab Sadrah).

Qagmas was intelligent and modest, as well as the overseer of many constructions during the time of Qaitbay. In 882 H. (1477 A.D) the Sultan Qaitbay visited the site of the old lighthouse in Alexandria and ordered a fortress to be built on its foundations. The construction lasted about 2 years, and it is said that Qaitbay spent more than a hundred thousand Dinars for the work on the Citadel.

Ibn Ayas mentioned that building of this fort started in the month of Rabi Alawal 882 H. He said that the Sultan Qaitbay travelled to Alexandria, accompanied with some other Mameluke princes, to visit the site of the old lighthouse and during this visit he ordered the building of the Citadel.

In the month of Shaban 884 H, the Sultan Qaitbay travelled again to Alexandria when the construction was finished. He provided the fort with a brave legion of soldiers and various weapons. He also, as Ibn Ayas mentioned, dedicated several waqfs from which he financed the construction works as well as the salaries of the soldiers.

Throughout the Mameluke period, and due to its strategic location, the Citadel was well maintained by all the rulers who came after Qaitbay.

The Sultan Qansoh El-Ghoury gave the Citadel special attention. He visited it several times and increased the strength of the garrison, providing it with various weapons and equipment. It included a large prison made for the princes and the state-men whom the Sultan kept away from his favour for some reason. In the episodes of the year 920 H, the Sultan El-Ghoury travelled to Alexandria with other princes. They went to the Citadel of Qaitbay where he watched some manoeuvres and military training on the defensive weapons of the Citadel of that era. When he felt the approach of the Ottoman threat, he issued a military decree to forbid weapons to be taken out of the Citadel, he even announced that the death penalty would be the punishment to those who try to steal anything from the Citadel, and he ordered the inscription of this decree on a marble slate fixed to the door leading the court. It says" 

Bism Ellah El-Rahman El-Rahim

"A decree by the order of our master, the noble rank, King Al-Ashraf Abou El-Naser Qansoh El-Ghoury, May God eternalise his reign, that no body should take Makahel weapon, gun powder, tools, or any other thing from the noble tower in Alexandria: and any one of the tower party, whether Mameluke, Slaves or Zarad Kashia, who breaks this (decree) and leaves the tower with something will be hanged at the gate of the tower, deserving the curse of God." 

Dated Rabei Alawal 907 H.

After the Ottoman Turks had conquered Egypt, even they cared for this unique Citadel. They used it for shelter, as they had done with the Citadel of Saladin in Cairo and the Citadels of Damieta, Rosetta, Al Borollos and El-Arish. They kept it in good condition and stationed it with infantry, artillery, a company of drummers and trumpeters, masons and carpenters.

As the Ottoman military became weak, the Citadel began to lose its military importance. In 1798 A.D, during the French expedition of Egypt, it fell into the hands of the French troops, mainly because of the weakness of the Citadel garrison, and the power of the French modern weapons at that time. Inside, the French found some crusader weapons, which dated back to the campaign of Louis IX. Maybe it was a spoil after the battle and capture of El-Mansoura!

When Mohammed Ali became the ruler of Egypt in 1805, he renovated the old Citadel, restoring and repairing its outer ramparts, and he provided the stronghold with the most modern weapons of the period, particularly the littoral cannons. We can consider the reign of Mohamed Ali as being another golden era for the Citadel.

The Citadel retained the interest of Mohammed Ali's successors until the year 1882 when the Orabi revolution took place The British fleet bombarded Alexandria violently on 11 July 1882 and damaged a large part of the city, especially in the area of the Citadel. This attack cracked the fortress, causing great damage. The north and western facades were severely damaged as a result of cannon explosions, aimed directly at the structure. The western facade was completely destroyed, leaving large gaps in it.

Unfortunately, the Citadel then remained neglected, until 1904 when the Ministry of Defence restored the Upper floors. King Farouk wanted to turn the Citadel into a royal Rest house so he ordered a rapid renovation on it.

After the revolution of 1952 the Egyptian Naval troops turned the building to a Maritime Museum. The biggest restoration work dates back to 1984, when the Egyptian Antiquities Organization made ambitious plans to restore the fort.

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The Citadel of Saladin in Cairo

The Citadel of Saladin in Cairo

Built by Saladin El Ayouby, the famous king and army leader and the founder of the Ayyubid Dynasty, during the end of the 12th century, the Citadel has witnessed many important events in the Egyptian history.


The citadel was used as the seat of the king and his government in Egypt for many centuries and many dynasties including the Ayyubids, the Mamluks, and even some Ottomans ruled over Egypt from the Citadel.

The citadel had always played a significant role in the political life of Egypt in different stages of history to the extent that in some occasions a king used to rule over Cairo while another Sultan or ruler had control of the citadel. Moreover, the Citadel has defended Egypt against many attacks in different periods of time.

Many important monuments were built in the Citadel of Saladin throughout its long history. This includes the marvelous Mosque of Mohamed Ali which is the best example of the Ottoman architecture in Egypt, the Mamluk Mosque of El Nasser Mohamed, and the small charming Mosque of Suleiman Pasha El Khadim.

Today, the Citadel of Saladin is considered to be among the most popular historical sites of Cairo as it is included in almost all the tours designed for visiting the capital of Egypt.

Other than the mosques, the citadel hosts another four interesting museums; the Military Museum, the Police Museum, the Royal Carriages Museum, and the Qaser El Gawhara Museum.

Located at the top of a high cliff, the citadel is also featured with its special location that offers the tourists with magnificent views over different sections around Cairo.

The Reasons behind the Construction of the Citadel and its Location

When Saladin took control of Egypt, with no resistance to be mentioned from the Fatimids who ruled Egypt from the 8th till the 12th century, he decided that Cairo should have a fortified citadel to protect the city against any foreign attacks especially the threat of the crusaders that were carrying military campaigns towards the Middle East at this period of time.

Saladin was influenced with the forts and citadels he viewed in Syria and Lebanon and how fortified and protective they were. Recognizing the importance of having such a citadel to protect Cairo, he guided all the resources he had to construct such an important military structure.

After checking out many different locations in and around Cairo, Saladin decided to construct his citadel over the Mokatam Hill to overlook the whole city of Cairo and to be located at a high position that is hard to be reached or attacked.

History of its construction

The construction work of the citadel of Saladin in Cairo has started in 1176 during the reign of Saladin. However, it was completed in 1182 during the ruling period of Al Malek El Kamel, who governed Egypt after Saladin and was the first king to live in the citadel.

Saladin insisted to build a strong fortified citadel to protect the city of Cairo against all sorts of threats. Maybe this was why it was said that he destructed some small pyramids in Giza and used their stones to build his citadel and its walls.

Many of the soldiers of the army of Saladin together with some crusaders that were captured by Saladin have worked together in the building of the citadel that was viewed as a wonderful piece of military architecture when it was completed.

Saladin has also dig a water well inside the citadel to be used by the soldiers if the citadel goes under siege and this well is considered to be one of the most difficult constructions achieved at this period in the 12th century as it was 90 meters deep and it was dig inside the hardest rocks of the Mokatam Mountain.

Regarded as one of the most elegant fortresses to be constructed in the middle ages, the Citadel of Saladin in Cairo is featured with its strategic location overlooking the two neighboring cities that were alive at the time; Fustat and Cairo.


Moreover, being situated between the two cities, the Citadel of Saladin provided good connections between different sections of town and it functioned as a place to resort to and to be protected in case of any sudden attack on Cairo.

Historical Events the Citadel Witnessed

The Citadel of Saladin in Cairo has witnessed several important events throughout the history of Egypt during the Ayyubid and Mamluks period. Even during the French invasion of Egypt, under the leadership of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1798, the citadel had an important role to play in defending the city until the French soldiers took control of it.


Mohamed Ali, who was sent by the Ottoman Sultan in Istanbul to rule Egypt under his leadership and who was able to make Egypt an independent state away from the Ottoman power in the 19th century, ruled Egypt from the citadel.

Furthermore, it was in the Qaser El Gawhara or the Palace of the Jewel, which is located inside the Citadel of Saladin and was transformed into a museum today, where Mohamed Ali invited the Mamluks leaders and murdered them in the famous political event that was named afterwards as the "Massacre of the Citadel"

The Gates of the Citadel of Saladin 

El Mokatam Gate

This gate was named El Mokatam Gate because it was created near the Mokatam monitoring tower of the citadel. Constructed during the Ottoman period, this gate is now called the Salah Salem Gate, referring to the street where it is located today.

The Gate of Mokatam was created inside a thick wall made out of hard rocks to the South of the Tower of Mokatam. In 1785, a wall with several balconies was added to the gate during the reign of Mohamed Yakan Pasha who constructed himself a palace near his gate. Unfortunately the palace was damaged afterwards in different historical events.

When Mohamed Ali came to rule over Egypt he made many restoration and renovations to the Citadel of Saladin as he paved a way between Bab El Mokatam in the citadel and the road located below it, which was 650 meters long.

The Gate of El Mokatam was damaged with time passing by and a large portion of the walls surrounding it was lost as well when the Egyptian government constructed the Salah Salem Road in 1955 and a new door was established where guests enter the citadel through today.

Bab El Hadeed or The Iron Gate

Mohamed Ali has started constructing the Iron Gate in 1822 to be the main gate of the Citadel of Saladin as it allowed larger cannons and equipments to enter the citadel. Mohamed Ali has also paved a road connecting this gate to the rest of Cairo and it is today known as the Street of Bab El Hadeed.

The Iron Gate has two main facades; the Northern façade that overlooks the Bab El Hadeed Street near Dar El Mahfozat, or the Old Building of Archives that was connected to the Citadel and this northern façade is now about 15 meters long and from 16 to 20 meters high.

The Northern façade of the Iron Gate of the Citadel of Saladin has some marvelous architectural elements like the memorial plate that contains some facts about the construction of the gate.

The Middle Gate

Historians have long argued about the origin of the name of this gate. Some of them claim that it was named the Middle Gate because it was located in the middle between the two administration buildings of the two Sultans; Sultan El Ghoury and Sultan Qalauan afterwards.

Other theories noted that it was called the Middle Gate because it was located between the two other main gates of the citadel; the Iron Gate and El Mokatam Gate.

In 1826, Mohamed Ali restored this gate, which exact construction date is still unknown, and the walls that were surrounding it, as part of his large restoration and renovation works that were carried out in the Citadel of Saladin.

Under Mohamed Ali, there were other monuments added to the Citadel, among them the great alabaster Mosque of Mohamed Ali.


The Citadel of Saladin will always remain one of the most important highlights of Cairo. Visiting the Mosque of Mohamed Ali, the Military Museum, viewing the marvelous architecture of the citadel, and watching Cairo from above are among the most interesting activities to be done in the citadel while a traveler is touring the Egyptian capital.

Places you should visit in the Citadel:

• The Mosque of Mohamed Ali
• The Mosque of EL-Nasser Mohamed (The Mosque with the green dome!)
• The Military Museum
• El-Gouhara Palace 
• National Police Museum

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